"These are the best lamb chops in town," my companion said. A successful investment broker, he dines at fine restaurants almost every evening, so his opinion is meaningful.
We were seated at Chopahn Authentic Afghan Cuisine, which opened a short time ago in the Gaslamp. It is one of two well-known Afghan restaurants in San Diego. The other is Khyber Pass in Hillcrest.
"As the name states, the recipes for the dishes at Chopahn are authentic, old family recipes that I brought to America," proprietor Haider Hussainy assured me.
Hussainy, who owned other restaurants in San Diego before opening his new location in the Gaslamp, is a genial host who cares deeply about his customers and his cuisine. Every dish that is served out of the kitchen must pass his personal inspection before it is placed on the table. He enjoys explaining the items on his menu, defining the complexity of the flavors through the intricate use of spices.
Afghan cuisine differs from Indian cuisine even though the dishes may look similar. Because meats were hard to get historically, the cuisine features vegetable dishes like eggplant, spinach and pumpkin along with lamb, beef and chicken. Exotic spices like cumin, cardamom, and saffron add flavor but they are not blended with hot spices like with Indian cuisine. Afghan flavors are milder, subtle and cooler. Yogurt is a frequent ingredient that adds taste and mildness.
Chopahn's interior is comfortable. Tables covered with white tablecloths are spaced to provide privacy. An exotic ambiance is created by the use of Moorish-like arches. A large bar runs along the back of the restaurant. More seating for diners is available in a mezzanine. The aroma of blended spices fills the air, stimulating the taste buds.
Before Sept. 11, many Americans did not even know where Afghanistan is located on a map. Now, daily newspaper headlines blare the latest events going on in the country. But the focus on current events often ignores the amazing history and enormous culture of a country, ringed by high mountains, that was situated in the middle of the Silk Road, on which goods and spices passed from "east to west." Many famous footsteps have trodden through the land -- Alexander the Great, Cyrus, Darius, Hannibal and Genghis Khan, among others -- often as invading conquerors. In the last century, the British and Russians attempted to dominate. The repressive Taliban regime controlled the country for several years before being ousted by the United States. Despite all the travail, Afghan culture continued to flourish.
Dishes have exotic names but are well explained on the menu. Hussainy is pleased to answer questions or to offer suggestions. Pakawra-E-Badejan -- batter dipped sautÈed eggplant, topped with yogurt and meat sauce -- is an excellent appetizer that has a light and subtle flavor. The dumplings are also good. Aushak is filled with leak, topped with yogurt, meat sauce and mint. Mantu, also available as an entree, is filled with chopped beef and herbs, topped with yogurt and sautÈed vegetables.
As a landlocked country, seafood is not a traditional Afghan menu item. Lamb, beef and chicken, along with basmati rice, are offered in a variety of styles, mostly as portions of meat on skewers or "kabobs." Challaw dishes are rice-based. For example, Korma Challaw has tender pieces of beef that are cooked with green pepper, onions and tomato served on a bed of white basmati rice. My companion's favorite dish, Shinwari, was a thick oven-roasted rack of lamb that was delightfully encrusted with pistachio nuts, moist on the inside and full of flavor.
The special that evening was delicious lamb shanks, two large shanks cooked thoroughly with spices to suffuse flavor into the meat, which was so tender it flaked off the bone.
A side dish of Gulpi, stewed cauliflower with ginger and tomato, added subtle flavor to the meal. But, to add heat to a dish, try some of the pickles, eggplant and other vegetables in the "cookie jar" on the bar. But be cautious. They are hot.
For dessert, try the homemade baklava, which is a wonderful flaky pastry and is not as sweet or sticky as the types commonly served in other restaurants.
America has made a deep and expensive commitment to defend Afghanistan in our war against terrorism. Exploring and understanding Afghan cuisine and how the subtlety of flavors reflect the history and culture of the country can help us better comprehend the importance of our involvement there.
Chopahn Authentic Afghan Cuisine is located at 720 Sixth Avenue, a few steps from the heart of the Gaslamp. One will be rewarded with a delightful dining experience, a genial host and affordable prices. Call (619) 236-9236 for information and reservations.
Rottenberg is editor of Dining San Diego Magazine and member of the California Restaurant Writers Association. Send comments to the editor@sddt.com. All letters are forwarded to the author and may be used as Letters to the Editor.
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