For many years, the main reason to go to a casino in San Diego County was to gamble. That meant to play bingo. But times and laws have changed. Now San Diego is home to a number of casinos that offer more than a chance to black out numbers on a card.
One of the bigger, more cosmopolitan of these is Barona Valley Ranch Resort & Casino in Lakeside. It has grown from being housed in one large circus-like tent into a magnificent campus that includes a beautiful hotel, championship golf course and picturesque wedding chapel. The casino is in a hotel-connected building where machines blink and clink, disgorging winnings to lucky players. The casino offers a variety of games of chance, where players compete with the laws of probability, hoping to walk away as winners.
Lakeside is a short drive from Mission Valley. Drive along Interstate 8 east through El Cajon to Highway 67 and then follow the signs to the Barona Reservation, where the resort is located. It is rewarding to look around when driving inland on Wildcat Canyon Road. The highway cuts a narrow ribbon between green, boulder-strewn hills.
Visitors to Barona Valley Ranch Resort & Casino have many amenities to enjoy. The hotel rooms are large and comfortable; the golf course is challenging; a spa provides relaxing treatments; and the food is good. Everyone is a winner in the dining rooms.
Food operations are under the direction of Scott Kidd, food and beverage director, and Executive Chef Dean Thomas. Kidd is a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America and understands good cuisine. Thomas is an award-winning, highly honored master of the kitchen. Together, they make sure that everything diners find on their plates is as good as it can be.
The casino has several restaurants for players and diners to enjoy, including a lavish buffet. But the flagship restaurant, the "prime of the prime," so to speak, is the Barona Oaks Steakhouse.
Barona Oaks Steakhouse is open for dinner only. The ambiance is intimate and sophisticated. The interior has an old-fashioned, clubby look, with dark wood contrasting to the light colored wallpaper. Soft music plays in the background, the delightful piano stylings of Jonathan Zarzosa. The ambiance is comfortable and soothing. The emphasis is on service and sensation. Waiters are responsive to every need, and the flavors and presentation of the food are calculated to please.
Alcohol is served in the steakhouse, even though it is not served elsewhere on the property. A good way to start is by reviewing the martini menu. A martini flight offers samplings of three mixologist dreams to help diners relax. The excellent wine menu lists both by the glass and bottle. Most selections are from California and are moderately priced.
Despite the steakhouse name, Barona Oaks also offers seafood, both as appetizers and as entrees. Oysters, lobster, crab, clams, shrimp and scallops are all on the menu. Soy Poached Ahi Tuna is a good way to stimulate the senses, as is the Jumbo Lump Crab Cake. The chef prepared a tasty Lobster Ragout with Garlic Crostini that was enjoyable.
A Lobster Chowder with crème frachie or a chilled salad also are good starters. The Iceberg Wedge and the Caesar Salad were excellent. The chef kindly placed all the anchovies on my plate.
Seafood entrees included Crab Legs and Australian Lobster by the pound. Live Maine Lobster included a gigantic three-pound version. But steaks are the name of the game. Filet Mignon is prepared tender and juicy, full of its own flavor. The Porterhouse is large and glazed on top, bone-in and absolutely delicious. Potato Gratin, thin slices of a very large potato, had a buttery taste that went so well with the selections. Other entrees include a good Buffalo Ribeye, Prime Rib and Double Cut Pork Chops. Better yet, build your own seafood-steak combination, a Surf-and-Turf.
Desserts arrive on a serving cart, a chuck wagon of sweets on wheels, which includes Crème Brûlée, Cheesecake and Lava Cake. The presentation was very tempting, but I opted for a dish of berries that the chef prepared, a wonderful way to end an amazing meal.
You can't lose in the Barona Oaks Steakhouse. The ambiance is perfect for a relaxing, romantic evening. The food is sensational. And the gaming entertainment is just outside the door. Prices are consistent with the quality. Reservations are recommended.
Barona Casino is located 1932 Wildcat Canyon Road in Lakeside. Shuttle transportation is available from select pickup locations, for those who don't wish to drive. Call toll free (888) 7-BARONA for information and reservations.
Note: Ooops, I goofed. In my review of 94th Aero Squadron, a fabulous theme restaurant in Kearny Mesa, I gave you the fax number instead of the correct phone number for reservations. The correct reservations number is (858) 560-6771. This is a restaurant well worth visiting.
Rottenberg is editor of Dining San Diego Magazine and member of the California Restaurant Writers Association. Send comments to the editor@sddt.com. All letters are forwarded to the author and may be used as Letters to the Editor.
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