"We cut our steaks daily," Bob Andrews said proudly as he held open the door to the freezer. "Our steaks are prime, the top 2 percent of meat in the nation. The meat that one eats here at night was butchered that day." He pointed to the gleaming chrome saw, where his chefs do the skilled preparation work. We looked in to the freezer, where boxes of steaks were stacked for the next day's expected crowd of diners.
Bob Andrews is the managing partner of the Fleming's Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar in the Gaslamp. There are Fleming's locations in more than 20 states. A managing partner and a managing chef are usually present at each of the chain's locations. Each managing partner is responsible for getting involved with the local community to become familiar with preferences and local markets. With that experience, each restaurant can offer wines and menu selections that suit both season and region where it is located. Andrews is continually on the move in the restaurant, checking the food, the service and the responses of his guests.
Fleming's Steakhouse has experienced remarkable growth since it was founded in Newport Beach in 1998. One of its founders, Peter Fleming, was a participant in the Ruths' Chris Steakhouse chain but sold his interest back to the company to pursue his own concept development. One of his creations was the popular PF Chang China Bistro chain. Then he and Bill Allen joined forces to create Fleming's.
"People love our steakhouse for the scene and the value," says Paul Fleming. "One of the most important differences between Fleming's and other high-end steakhouses is price -- most high-end steakhouses charge much more than we do simply because they can."
Bill Allen focuses on the service aspects. "The success that I have enjoyed to date is because I understand that this business is about people," he stated. Efficient and pleasant service is a key to the Fleming's concept.
"This operation is so well-oiled," my companion said, meaning that everything went smoothly. We were quickly seated and treated to a basket of crackers with two cheese dips to enjoy while we perused the menus. The first dip was made of creamy Brie; the second was a delightful gorgonzola.
The wine list offers 100 selections, all available by the glass. That allows diners to try different wines with their dinner choices to create their own pairings, to discover what they really like. Wine flights, in fact, present three 2 ounce servings of different wines, for easy taste experimentation. A separate Reserve List includes 80 to 100 internationally famous wines that are available only by the bottle.
Service was excellent. Our server was knowledgeable, friendly and offered good input as we chose our entrees. She always made sure we were more than satisfied.
Excellent appetizers are a great way to begin a memorable meal. Calamari, lightly breaded and tossed with sweet chili sauce, or Chilled Seafood Tower made of lobster, shrimp, crab and oysters are tasty starters. To me, the litmus test of a fine restaurant is its bisque. It is a difficult dish to get just right. Either too much cream or too much acidity can ruin it. The Shrimp Bisque I sampled was absolute perfection -- a rich creamy flavor with a strong overlay of taste of marvelous seafood.
"Even though we're a steakhouse," Andrews told me, "we have wonderful seafood. Our chef is from Walla Walla, Wash., and he really knows how to handle fish."
But Fleming's is a steakhouse, bottom line, and the steaks are amazing, beautifully marbled and full of flavor. The meats are seasoned then broiled at 1600 degrees; the high temperature sears in the flavor. Plates are so hot that servers have to insulate their jackets with stacks of napkins to handle the heat.
Steaks range from an 8-ounce filet to a plate-filling 22-ounce bone-in ribeye. There is even a Beef Wellington dish, filet wrapped in puff pastry with a mushroom duxelle and madeira sauce.
Side dishes add to the pleasure of the meal. Potato is available five ways, but I opted for a traditional oversize baked potato with all the trimmings. The exterior of the potato was delightfully crusty from the oven's heat while the interior was moist, especially when butter, sour cream and chives were added. Sauteed mushrooms with toasted garlic pieces were superb.
If there is still room for dessert, a good cheesecake is in the lineup with crème brulée, lava cake and other good stuff. The Key Lime Pie was super, with an excellent crusty base, tart flavor and blueberry sweetness. If only one dessert is to be ordered, pick the pie. It is a winner.
Fleming's Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar in the Gaslamp lives up to all that its founders, Fleming and Allen, have promised: great food, comfortable ambiance, personalized service and moderate prices. There is also a Fleming's Prime Steakhouse in La Jolla, in the Aventine complex, with the same good food and service. The Gaslamp location is at 380 K St., at the intersection with Fourth Avenue. Call (619) 237-1155 for information or reservations.
Rottenberg is editor of Dining San Diego Magazine and member of the California Restaurant Writers Association. Send comments to the editor@sddt.com. All letters are forwarded to the author and may be used as Letters to the Editor.
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