"This is one of my favorite places to eat!" my companion exclaimed. "Of the many places we go, dining here is so very comfortable, and I love the values."
We had just pulled up to The Butcher Shop Steakhouse, which has served loyal diners for many years in Kearny Mesa. A number of years ago, Fred Mashhour bought the restaurant. (He also owns the nearby 94th Aero Squadron, a fabulous dining establishment with an ambiance based around a theme of a World War I French countryside farmhouse.) After taking over The Butcher Shop, Mashhour improved the interior and added a banquet area.
The interior of The Butcher Shop feels like an exclusive private club. The restaurant boasts comfortable leather booths, wood paneling and deep pile carpeting. Lighting is dim, and the predominant color is red. Lovely paintings grace the walls; one is filled with books, creating the theme of an elegant library. The décor inspires romance, intimacy and comfort.
Mashhour upgraded the kitchen and redid the bar, completing it with a fireplace. He also created two elegant meeting rooms: The larger accommodates up to 200 guests, while the smaller houses 50 guests.
Although The Butcher Shop is best known for its meats, there are also several seafood choices. Shrimp and lobster are year-round favorites. The menu includes Veal Oscar and Veal Piccata prepared in excellent, traditional fashion. The chicken dishes are imaginative and wonderful, and combination dishes meld meats with Lobster Tail, Shrimp or Crab Legs.
The "meat" side of the menu nearly fills the page with mouth-watering descriptions of prime rib, filet, New York, porterhouse and top sirloin steaks. All steak selections are Midwest grain-fed prime and USDA choice, aged to a minimum of 21 days. Steaks are broiled over mesquite charcoal. The grade of prime rib and top sirloins is USDA prime, and fillets are USDA choice.
"We maintain our core menu at all times, because that is what our customers expect," senior manager Mike McCampbell told me. "And most of our appetizers and sides are always available. But we introduce new items as appetizers and sides seasonally."
Salmon Bruschetta, a new appetizer, competed for my attention with Crab Cakes, which came with salsa and had a complex Southwest flavor.
My companion chose the Grilled Salmon -- firm on the outside, yet soft on the inside. I, on the other hand, chose the Rib Eye Steak -- a full pound of beautifully marbled goodness, with the bone in to add flavor.
"You've got to try the mushroom," McCampbell advised.
Our server brought over a dish of mushrooms and mushroom parts, prepared in a heavy red wine sauce that had great body and a tantalizing flavor, which danced on my taste buds.
Lava Cake is one of the signature desserts; leave some room for this delicious delight. The Double-Dipped Chocolate Strawberries provide a nice endorphin high, and the Strawberries in Grand Marnier Crème can replace the traditional after-dinner brandy. Traditional Crème Brûlée with the glazed sugar top is a fine closure to a fine meal. And, the light but tasty Berries Dish is very popular.
The Butcher Shop is located close to many corporate offices, making it a favorite for lunchtime because it offers express meals for diners who need to get back to work quickly. The club-like atmosphere is relaxing and intimate, the cuisine is delicious and prices are moderate -- all representing a great dining experience at a great value.
The Butcher Shop is located at 5255 Kearny Villa Road, between Balboa and Clairemont Mesa, close to both highways 163 and 15. Call (858) 565-2272 for information and reservations.
Rottenberg is editor of Dining San Diego Magazine and member of the California Restaurant Writers Association. Send comments to the editor@sddt.com. All letters are forwarded to the author and may be used as Letters to the Editor.
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