If a restaurant has succeeded in business for more than 60 years, you know it's gotta be good. Obviously, generations of customers have given it their stamps of approval in the most effective way consumers vote -- with their wallets.
Anthony's Fish Grotto has fed tens of thousands of diners. Today, perhaps the great-grandchildren of early customers are sitting at the tables, faces pressed to the large panes of glass that look out onto a stunning San Diego Bay view.
The "Anthony's" name is practically synonymous with fine seafood. The family produces and markets a line of products in addition to its chains of restaurants, which are sold in major retail outlets. But the restaurant business is really where their greatest interests lie.
It all began in mid-1946. "Mama" Ghio, whose family were fishermen in Italy and California, decided to fulfill her dream of opening her own restaurant. With the help of her two sons and son-in-law, she started the first Anthony's Fish Grotto. Her old world recipes and focus on freshness and quality made it successful.
Today, Anthony's operates fish grottos in La Mesa, Chula Vista and along the harbor near the cruise terminal. It also owns "express" operations in Mission Valley and Kearny Mesa. Anthony's Fishette is located next to the Fish Grotto on the bay. The Fishette and "express" locations are more like fast-food operations, featuring many of the best recipes for which the chain is famous.
Anthony's operated Star Of The Sea, a fine-dining seafood restaurant that was located on the bay close to the tall ship Star of India. This location is now closed for renovation and may reopen as a new dining concept.
The company constructed the bayside location on pylons, over the water. The dining room is a long, glass-enclosed rectangular area. As waves gently roll by beneath the windows, diners may feel as if they are moving on a cruise. Service is fast and attentive, with plenty of staff addressing diners' needs. Speed is essential because the restaurant is very popular and there is usually a group waiting to be seated. Diners, however, never get a rushed feeling.
One dines at the Fish Grotto for fish -- fresh and well-prepared. There is one chicken dish, a flatiron steak dish and pasta, but even the pasta comes with fish.
The wine list is inviting because it does not cost an arm to add a bottle of tasty vintage to the meal. Most bottles were priced in the low-$20 range and wine flights, three good-size pours of different varietals, offered an excellent way to explore the way different wines work on the flavors of the dishes.
Appetizers include Seared Ahi, "Mama's" Crab Cakes and a lightly battered calamari. The Crispy California Roll was particularly good, a deep-fried sushi variation that had great texture along with great flavor. Seafood cocktails -- crab, and shrimp -- come with a special cocktail sauce. Oysters are offered as well as mouth-watering chowder, both creamy and zesty. Portion sizes are large.
Hand-battered classics like fish and chips or battered scallops make a lovely entrée. A long list of salads is offered, with choices of accompanying fish and dressings. Other entrées, such as Alaskan Cod, Stuffed Salmon and even Frogs Legs are well-priced. Lobster dishes, including Lobster Thermidor, are market-priced.
Desserts round out a lunch or dinner. The cheesecake is particularly good. Anthony's has been consistently voted as "San Diego's Best Seafood," serving delicious food at moderate prices. It is a wonderful place to bring the family.
Anthony's Fish Grotto on the bay is located at 1360 Harbor Drive. Call (619) 232-5103 for information. Or, consult the telephone directory for the nearest location.
Rottenberg is editor of Dining San Diego Magazine and member of the California Restaurant Writers Association. Send comments to the editor@sddt.com. All letters are forwarded to the author and may be used as Letters to the Editor.
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