Indigo Grill: a restaurant with 'points of difference'

Duke Ellington had his "Mood Indigo." Chef Deborah Scott has her "Indigo Grill." Each, in its own way, is a great expression of talent and artistry.

Indigo Grill, located in the heart of Little Italy, is a unique restaurant, creating a fusion of tastes that range from the tip of Alaska to the tip of Mexico.

"Every restaurant must have its point of difference," Scott said. "Why should customers go out to dine if they can eat the same at home? And why should they dine at this particular restaurant? We try to stand out."

Little Italy is home to an upscale group of tenants and homeowners, typically young executives and upwardly mobile people who prefer to dine out at the eateries that line the street to cooking at home.

Points of difference are evident from the moment one enters Indigo Grill. The interior of the restaurant is not a typical large room, but seems to flow almost organically in a wavy arc that meanders around a long bar and then winds around a prominent stone oven. Spaces are divided by large sheets of frosted, textured glass that are impermeable, but allow light to pass through. Multiple levels of seating, pleasing to the eye, are achieved by staggering the heights of chair and bar stools. The restaurant has a neighborhood feel and was practically filled. Diners come from all over the city.

"Show me another restaurant that blends such flavors," Scott said. Her portions are large -- "We do big here," she said -- and beautifully presented, sparkling with blends of colors and tastes.

Presentation is an important element of her cooking style. Scott studied at excellent schools -- Baltimore International Culinary Academy and then to CIA for a graduate degree. Even as a student, she won two awards from American Culinary Federation. She worked both in the "front" as well as the "back" of the house, and understands thoroughly what it takes to please her clientele and keep them coming back for more.

Fourteen years ago, she teamed up with David Cohn.

"He and Leslie used to come to my restaurant and always loved it," she said.

They own and operate Indigo Grill together, as well as Island Prime and C Level Restaurant on Harbor Island. They are now planning to develop the Ruben E Lee on that site.

Items listed on the menu include cilantro, jalapeno, tortilla, maize, chipotle and other items from down south of the border but they are melded with chicken, beef, pork and seafood in a contemporary way. There is a strong southwest influence to the dishes. Tortilla Soup, an appetizer, is a large and stylish dish of dark brown thick broth topped with a mound of tortilla strips, crème fraise and corn salsa. Interesting patterns are drawn on the surface of the soup, creating strong visual appeal, enhanced by its enticing aroma. The soup had its own texture, added to by the crunch of the corn.

Other appealing appetizers include Grilled Romaine, with a chipotle-anchovy crème and Pipian Crusted Brie, with jalapeno jelly and toasted flatbread.

Entrees include Alderwood Plank Salmon, fresh from the sea, with flatbread, with cucumber-dill moleto and squid ink pasta.

The pasta was thick and very tasty, obviously "homemade."

"We do everything in house, including baking our breads in the large brick oven," Scott said.

The Mojo Bone In Rib-Eye was wonderful to look at as well as to taste, served on a uniquely shaped platter. The large portion was topped artistically with mildly spicy corn relish, flanked on one side by a tamale and on the other side by a volcanic looking sliced butternut squash basted with bourbon-flavored butter. The rib-eye was grilled perfectly. The tamale was amazingly light and full of good spicy flavor.

Indigo Grill achieves its objectives of "points of difference" with ambiance and menu that is very different and very satisfying. Try it once and you'll be back for more. Prices are moderate.

Indigo Grill is located at 1536 India St. Street parking is usually available. Call (619) 234-6902 for more information and reservations.

Rottenberg is editor of Dining San Diego Magazine and member of the California Restaurant Writers Association. Send comments to the editor@sddt.com. All letters are forwarded to the author and may be used as Letters to the Editor.