Have you ever visited Sevilla? The capital of Spain's Andalusia province, its climate and look is similar to that of San Diego. The city is full of palm trees and red tile-roofed stucco homes. The weather is temperate all year long. The city is noted for its history, ancient buildings, food and music. I found Sevillanos, as residents are called, to be welcoming and hospitable.
That warm sense of hospitality is reflected in the welcoming attentive service diners receive at Café Sevilla, which has been in business for many years near the corner of Fourth Avenue and Market Street in the Gaslamp. You can't miss the entrance, marked by a tall metallic suit of armor standing in a Don Quixote pose near the front door. In fact, there are two entrances, one to the bar and one to the restaurant, separated by the doorway to a small hotel.
The anticipation of a unique dining experience is felt right away. The entrance to the bar is semi-circular, like entering a cave -- perhaps a flamenco cave (that genre of music actually originated in Andalusia). Decorative barrels of wine emerge from the wall behind the bar, reminiscent of the wines of the region and the mixing of sangria, a blend of wine and fruits that are left standing until the fruit flavors suffuse the liquid to create a delightful drink. Drying meats hang from hooks and the horns of a bull reflect the local traditions.
Café Sevilla was one of the first local restaurants to feature tapas on the menu. Long ago, the king of Spain decreed that food had to be served along with any drinks so innkeepers offered small servings of cured ham, cheese or olives on bread on top of the glass. That custom carried on through the ages. In Sevilla, Spain, diners often go out to eat after 9 p.m. So, when stopping for an earlier drink, tapas are served to keep hunger away.
Tapas (listed as "tapitas" on the menu) come in many flavors and choices. One may order shrimp ajillo with lots of garlic, spicy marinated octopus or specialty tapas such as seafood crepe, with fish and shrimp in a mild and tasty lobster sauce.
Many tapas are presented in three-tier metallic trays. Portions are small enough not to be filling, but large enough for sharing and conversation. It's a lot of fun to drink sangria (several varieties of sangria are available), bite into a series of tapas and just kick back to enjoy the evening.
The main dining room is next to the bar area, through a curved archway. Tapas can be ordered in the dining room as well as in the bar. The room has just been remodeled and looks really good, creating an ambiance of a Sevilla street scene.
The menu offers many traditional dishes -- beef brocheta, chunks of beef on a skewer, sampler platter such as best of the grill, which is a plate of beef, chicken, lamb and chorizo, and paella.
Paella is a dish found all over Spain. Types of paella vary, depending on what fish, beef or produce is produced in each locality but the foundation is always a bed of rice with saffron. Many paellas are based on seafood, lots of fish, clams, mussels served on top of rice. I chose the meat paella, served blazingly hot in a skillet, with lamb, chicken, beef and chorizo mixed with a spicy rice. Washed down with a couple of bottles of Estrella Galicia, a Spanish beer, it was delightful.
The hospitality of General Manager Joe Santos and Chef Virgil Separa can make the evening memorable. Prices range from inexpensive to moderate.
But, Café Sevilla is more than a restaurant -- it is also a popular entertainment venue. Flamenco and guitar music starts in the bar at about 9 p.m., creating an exciting rhythmic background for drinkers and diners.
Downstairs, at the club level, live music is offered nightly. The live music calendar changes nightly and can be seen online at cafesevilla.com. The focus is on Latino music and dancing. Music begins at 10 p.m., but salsa and lambada lessons begin Tuesday through Thursday at 8:30 p.m.
A night at Sevilla (the café, that is) offers a complete package of good drinks, good food and good fun. The San Diego location is at 555 Fourth Ave. Call (619) 233-5979 for more information and reservations. Other locations are in Long Beach and Riverside.
Rottenberg is editor of Dining San Diego Magazine and member of the California Restaurant Writers Association. Send comments to the editor@sddt.com. All letters are forwarded to the author and may be used as Letters to the Editor.
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