The Bible says, "As you sow, so shall you reap." Ryan Johnson paraphrases, "You get out of the pot what you put into the pot."
The philosophical formula sounds simple, but it really demands a lot -- strong focus on freshness and local seasonal ingredients. It also demands that everything that is served be controlled and made in-house. Johnson makes all dishes from scratch, including marvelous desserts, unique ice creams and pasta. Even the meat is aged there.
Ryan Johnson practices his success formula at his latest venture: Whisknladle in La Jolla. The location was once owned by Sami Ladeki, and was named "Fresh." Ladeki sold "Fresh" to Arturo Kassel in order to concentrate on growing his other ventures, especially Sammy's Woodfired Pizza.
Kassel, a young and energetic entrepreneur, always wanted to own a restaurant. He has an advanced degree in hospitality from Switzerland, studied culinary techniques in France, mastered wines in the United States and managed an important restaurant back east.
Kassel initially changed the name of the restaurant to "Fresh(er)" but decided that he really wanted to change the whole dynamics of the restaurant. He sought to focus on creating a warm and friendly dining experience, with simple foods and pure flavors. He selected the name "whisknladle" because they connote using the simples cooking utensils.
He also brought in Johnson as a partner and executive chef. Johnson, who graduated from the CIA in 1995, spent 10 years working with prestigious chefs, including Thomas Keller in Napa Valley. Many patrons know him from his work with Ladeki at Blackhorse Grill in Del Mar.
The cuisine could be described as "Gourmet Comfort Food infused with Mediterranean influences." The menu is short but contains many popular items. They are listed as "food" and "morefood(ies)," with interesting choices. There is also a good selection of beers, cocktails and wines by the glass. Some quotations on the menu by Alice Waters (of Chez Panisse fame) set the tone. "Cook simply, cook together, eat together," she intoned.
The restaurant has a large, semi-open air patio that looks out onto the street. Most of the seating is actually on the patio, with carefully placed space heaters that make it very comfortable. A large bar area dominates the interior. The furniture and décor are chic. The lighting is fascinating, bright bulbs that look like Nikola Tesla designs hanging on electric cords from the ceiling.
Bread brought to the table demonstrated Johnson's unique style. The loaf was small but hearty, sliced into bite size pieces that broke apart, made sumptuous with garlic butter. The salad appetizer I ordered, Caesar Salad, was a large plate of very fresh romaine, topped with croutons, parmesan and an absolutely delightful anchovy dressing. Other appetizers include Seared Maine Scallops with sweet potato and spinach and Ahi Carpaccio with avocado, blood orange and almonds.
Entrees were large and beautifully presented. Half Jidori Chicken had the breast and wing piled atop the leg and thigh, separated by spinach. Peas were scattered on the plate like beautiful green marbles. The chicken was the best I've enjoyed in a long time, with crisp skin and moist, flavorful meat. Red Wine Braised Lamb stacked on mashed potato was dark and rich, full of taste. The dishes reflected Johnson's skill -- fresh, tasty, simple. Other entrees include Niman Ranch Hangar Steak and Alaskan Halibut.
I love marrow. I'll often order Osso Bucco just for the marrow. At Whisknladle, Roasted Bone Marrow is actually on the menu, beautifully presented in the bone, along with parmesan crusted toast slices.
Wine lovers will enjoy pricing strategies at Whisknladle. Instead of applying a huge markup, as many other restaurants, Kassel charge the approximate retail price plus corkage. That brings the price of many superb wines down to affordable levels. Wines are grouped under such whimsical categories as "que syrah sirah," "where in rhone" and the exciting "Spanish fly."
Rottenberg is editor of Dining San Diego Magazine and member of the California Restaurant Writers Association. Send comments to the editor@sddt.com. All letters are forwarded to the author and may be used as Letters to the Editor.
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