Some great restaurateurs learn their trade on the job. Others have it in their genes. Nick Tomasello was born for the business. He's the owner of two popular Gaslamp restaurants, Nicky Rottens Bar & Burger Joint and his new operation next door, Sloppy Joey's Pizza & Pasta Joint. The two are connected by an open archway.
Nick's grandfather was a famous pasta manufacturer and butcher in the old country. His parents were in the restaurant business for a while. Richard Silverman, who founded the Jack In The Box chain, among other accomplishments, is a close family member. So Nick's career path was no surprise.
After several years' apprenticeship in management for a downtown series of restaurants, he broke off into his own operation, where he could do things the way he wanted. Now, Nick and his wife, April, divide their time between greeting diners at their two locations and raising their two young children.
Success never comes easily but the two of them seem to have a good formula -- give diners lots of food in a comfortable and friendly setting, while charging inexpensive to moderate prices. The trick to the formula is making a profit.
"Despite the recession, we're doing better this year than last year at this time," April said.
The location also works. The restaurants are on Fifth Avenue, just past Market Street, in the heart of the Gaslamp action. They are well positioned for attracting not only diners at regular hours, but also pre- and post-entertainment diners, after ball games, plays or concerts.
They have now also opened a "speakeasy" beneath Sloppy Joey's, open Wednesday through Saturday until 2 a.m. that features live entertainment on weekends. The décor has the look and feel of an illegal 1920s dive that is fittingly named "Prohibition."
And to cover all the bases, Sloppy Joey's features breakfast every morning. The menu is large and includes almost any food one could wish for to stoke up for the rest of the day. The portions are huge.
The interior of Nicky Rottens carries through the "joint" theme. It is really casual. Exposed brick walls are lined with booths and high tables on one side and by a congenial long bar on the other. Gangster pictures, including photos of Al Capone and John Gotti, hang on the walls. A patio offers outdoor dining and an upstairs alcove offers a view of the main dining room from above.
Service is fast and friendly. I was seated within minutes by a smiling server who brought drinks quickly, together with complimentary bread (two long rolls made from pizza dough) and dipping sauce. Everything is made in house, including their "secret sauces and spice blends."
Hamburgers are one of America's favorite sandwiches. The burgers served at Nicky Rottens have won numerous awards, for good reason. They are delicious.
The burgers are all eight ounces but seem larger. The fries have a special seasoning that combines hints of garlic with spices to create a unique, subtle flavor that is far different and much better than the conventional fries one finds in other hamburger emporiums.
Many of the menu items have funny names describing unique combinations of ingredients. One of my favorites, the Bacavo Burger, puts together smoked bacon, avocado, lettuce, tomato and a great sauce with the meat, filling a bun to overflowing. It was so big that it was hard to finish, but the wonderful taste kept me going.
Another great dish, the 16-ounce ribeye, is aged 21 days, has superb flavor and is well priced. One can enjoy it without worrying about the mortgage. The "home wrecker" hot dog, using Hebrew National products, answers to a higher authority.
The menu at Sloppy Joey's next door is more traditionally Italian, with pastas, pizza and calzones as the headline items. But everything is prepared with special attention to detail, tastes and textures. It is good.
Nick and April make a great team -- hard working, focused, creative and working a good formula for success. The best way to share in their success is by enjoying their fine food, large portions and moderate prices.
Nicky Rottens Bar & Burger Joint is located at 560 Fifth Ave. Sloppy Joey's is next door. Call 619-702-8068 for more information.
Rottenberg is editor of Dining San Diego Magazine, a member of the California Restaurant Writers Association and the restaurant critic for sdgodowntown.com. Send comments to editor@sddt.com, which are forwarded to the author and may be used as Letters to the Editor.
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