I sometimes can't wait for out-of-town visitors to arrive, in order to see my own city.
Isn't it strange how frequently we neglect to visit many of the most important, nicest places in town, because we think of them as "tourist attractions"? How often do local residents visit Sea World, the Zoo or the Contemporary Museum of Art? So many of us are lulled into complacency, thinking that since these attractions are always here, someday... But, when visitors come, local residents are often delighted to parade our city's treasures. Why not enjoy them all the time?
Balboa Park appears to me to be one magnificent attraction that just doesn't get the usage it deserves. There have been many occasions on which I've ridden my bicycle through its tree-shaded, green lawn-ringed streets and have marveled at how empty they were. The Park is one of San Diego's greatest treasures.
Developed on over 1200 acres, the Park has long stretches of areas that are ideal for picnics, sunbathing, playing ball or chasing one's pet. It contains an amazing variety of trees and plants, many of them planted by Kate Sessions, who has a park in La Jolla named in her honor. It has gorgeous buildings, fascinating museums, and is adjacent to large athletic complexes and the Zoo.
The Reuben H. Fleet Science Center transports visitors to the depths and heights of our globe and even other planets and galaxies. The Old Globe Theatre complex re-creates Shakespearian plays in authentic replica settings. The Spreckels Organ Pavilion offers free outdoor concerts on weekends. Starlight Bowl features musicals and plays with stop-action poses for the performers when loud planes fly by.
That's just a few of the magical happenings at Balboa Park. There is so much more to see, to do and to enjoy.
The history of Balboa Park goes all the way back to 1835, when the land was reserved by the Mexican government, who ruled the area. After the Mexican-American War (1846), the U.S. government was in charge.
Balboa Park was instrumental in the development and growth of San Diego. Two exhibitions that were held at the park, the first in 1915-16 and the second, 1935-36, brought in collectively over 11 million visitors who were exposed the beauty, weather and opportunities of our city.
Walking through Balboa Park is idyllic. It is like a stroll through Sevilla, with balmy weather, lots of trees, and beautiful Spanish and Moorish architecture. There is even a large statue of El Cid, the conqueror, sitting on his horse.
One of the best rewards for spending time in Balboa Park is the opportunity to dine at The Prado, one of the David Cohn group of restaurants. As with all his business operations, Cohn makes sure that the food and ambiance at The Prado are superb.
The restaurant is located in a Spanish-style building, which looks like a square donut with a hole in the center, a courtyard. One has to go through the courtyard to enter. A large bar area, with seating, is on one side of the entrance. A massive dining room lies to the left. A large patio lies ahead.
The interior looks like a Spanish castle, with wrought iron and beamed, low-tiled ceiling. When I attended, the place was jammed with happy diners. Obviously, reservations were needed. It was a weekend and popular plays were on at the nearby theaters.
The patio was lovely. It was covered with interlocking umbrellas and had space heaters for the cold. It overlooked a gorgeous gazebo and the trees and flowers of the park. Lovely classical music played softly in the background.
The cuisine is the creation of Chef Jeff Thurston, Canadian born but thoroughly conversant with culinary concepts from Asia and Pacific Rim. He worked with such chef luminaries as Hans Rockenwagner and Wolfgang Puck before joining David Cohn's group. He understands Indian, Chinese, Japanese and Thai flavors to create a fusion, using the finest and freshest of ingredients.
These influences are evident with the starters. A Trio of Skewers impales beef, chicken and prawns together with sauces that include curry and mango. It comes with Asian slaw.
Crispy Calamari Fries come with a Korean soybean chili sauce that is sweet and spicy.
Salads reflect the use of fresh ingredients. The Pressed Salad includes arugula, fruit, nuts and cheese all pressed into a mold to create a lovely shape on one's plate. The Heirloom Tomato Salad had chunks of the vine-ripened fruit accompanied by a cold veggie soup that contained a mozzarella ball. Tasty and interesting.
Entrees feature seafood, pasta and meats. The Loch Duart Salmon was solid and hearty, with an heirloom tomato risotto. The Mixed Seafood Paella, a combination of seafood, chicken and chorizo in a saffron lobster broth, is definitely worth a try.
Braised Pork Osso Buco is a variation of this popular dish that is very pleasing. The meat is tender and flaky and very good. It is accompanied by a sweet potato plantain mash. Rosemary Roasted Half Jidori Chicken was one of my favorites because I like garlic. It comes with large roasted garlic cloves atop a bed of garlic mashed potatoes. The items are stacked, to create a nice presentation.
I'm a closet chocaholic. The desserts were very tempting. Chocolate Souffle Cake, like a lava cake, is filled with triple espresso gelato and looks as good as it tastes. Belgian Chocolate Mousse with Grand Marnier and peach ice cream puff, creates a revolving sensation of sweetness and tartness on my palate. Excellent.
I can't think of a more enjoyable evening that a stroll through Balboa Park, marveling at its beauty, dinner at The Prado and catching a play at the Old Globe. To me, that's what life is all about.
Prices at The Prado run moderate to expensive. Valet parking is available, although one may have to wait for the valet to come. There is lots of free parking but it gets crowded sometimes, and it may be a short walk to the restaurant. Reservations are recommended.
The Prado serves lunch daily and dinner Tuesday through Sunday. There is a mid-week happy hour. The restaurant is located at 1549 El Prado in Balboa Park. Call 619-557-9441 for reservations, directions and information.
Rottenberg is editor of Dining San Diego Magazine, a member of the California Restaurant Writers Association and the restaurant critic for sdgodowntown.com.
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