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La Jolla Strip Club: Like an indoor barbecue

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What kind of reaction could you expect when you invite someone to dinner but tell him that he has to do the cooking? "You've got to be kidding!" But it is fun to ease the shock when you tell him that you're taking him to a "strip club." That will get his attention.

David Cohn just opened his "lucky 13th" restaurant operation in the large Costa Verde Shopping Center in La Jolla, which is directly across the street from the even larger University Town Center (UTC) shopping center. He took over the old Trophy's location, another restaurant chain that fell victim to the teetering economy. Within a few short weeks of build-out, he opened the new La Jolla Strip Club.

This doesn't mean that he's gone into the naughty business. This is his second strip club. The first has been wildly successful in the Gaslamp. The "strip" refers to the cuts of delicious steak (as well as chicken, ahi and shrimp) that are brought to the table raw.

Yes, raw. The idea is that diners get to cook their own entrees at one of the several grills that are located strategically inside the restaurant. It is like having a barbeque indoors. And, like so many summertime backyard barbecues, you usually find "the guys" clustered around the unit nursing drinks and swapping stories. To keep the entertainment level high, large flat-screen TVs display sporting events.

James Stephenson, the executive chef and general manager who also manages the Gaslamp location, proudly showed me around. The restaurant has several dining areas and a large Vodka Lounge. Over 100 brands of vodka are available, so one's favorite is sure to be in stock.

The wine "cellar" is impressive. Wines are stored in vertical racks that cleverly also function as decorative room dividers.

The "Champagne Room" for private dining will work for groups of up to 45 guests. Another sunroom-like lounge area has a few pool tables and lots of comfortable seating. The ambiance of the whole restaurant is casual and fun. The place is a natural for parties and corporate buyouts, servicing the busy commercial and office complexes of the area.

Appetizers are offered as a start to dinner. The deal is seven appetizers for $7 apiece. The shrimp cocktail was excellent, with full-bodied, firm shrimp along with a tangy tomato-based cocktail sauce.

A large salad preceded the arrival of the meats. The large silver bowl held enough mixings to be a meal in itself, great to munch on while the meats are cooking. A server brought the wrapped cold meat selection and untoasted garlic bread.

Diners then take their meats to the grill. Racks on the side of the grill hold a good selection of spices with which to add more flavor to the naturally delicious "strips."

One can choose cuts from an eight-ounce filet to a 20-ounce porterhouse. Or, for seafood lovers, an eight-ounce, sushi-grade ahi is available.

One places the steak on the grill, listens to the sizzle and inhales the delicious aroma of steak cooking over hot flames. It really is a lot of fun to watch it happen, to get the timing right for the best flavor.

And, regarding timing, it is a good idea to order the side dishes while the steak is cooking, so that both can arrive to the table at the same time. Sides include mashed potatoes, beer battered onion rings, mac and cheese, creamed spinach and more. The truffle and herb fries with garlic dip, a large portion served in a voluminous paper cone, were hot and wonderfully firm.

For dessert, to top off the meal, New York cheesecake with fresh fruit and raspberry sauce and an ice cream sundae are among the temptations.

"We want to create something different in the area," Stephenson said. "We hope guests will enjoy good food in a comfortable setting that they can participate and have fun in preparing."

The La Jolla Strip Club is located at 4282 Esplanade Court, with lots of free parking. Call 858-450-1400 for reservations and information.


Rottenberg is editor of Dining San Diego Magazine.

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