Summer's here. Almost. Sure, we have our "May gray" days but, by and large, our weather is so good that most of the rest of the country regards San Diegans with envy. We can already begin to enjoy outdoor afternoon dining.

Picnics can be fun in our city's many parks or sitting on the beach. But, if crawly ants or sand between the toes are a turn-off, why not enjoy a relaxed lunch or early dinner at one of San Diego's many restaurants that feature exterior patios.

Diners can find a wide selection of such restaurants during a quick walk along Fourth or Fifth Avenue in the Gaslamp. Bandar Restaurant, convenient across the street from Horton Plaza, serves what many consider to be the city's best Persian food. Monsoon features exotic Indian cuisine and a sumptuous buffet. Further down the street, Dublin Square offers boxtys and Guiness on tap, along with other Irish treats.

A block over, on Fifth Avenue, many restaurants serve on patios a range of foods. They are wonderful venues for an impressive power lunch or for a relaxing, even romantic way to while away an afternoon.

One excellent restaurant that offers a comfortable patio is Osteria Panevino. The name alone sets up expectations of great food and ambiance. An "osteria" is a small Italian eating establishment, like the neighborhood eateries that one may find by turning a new corner in Florence. Panevino incorporates many features of such places. For example, the terra-cotta floor tiles were imported from Italy along with the colorful ceramics and marble. On display are various works of art depicting the small colonies in Florence in medieval times. The name "panevino" speaks of the essentials of life -- wine and bread. Could one survive on such a diet? Probably. Could one enjoy such a diet? Of course! Good bread and good wine can seal a deal or cement a relationship. Naturally, the food is Tuscan.

The executive chef, Alberto Morreale, supervises Osteria Panevino as well as its two sister restaurants, Osetra The Fish House and Greystone The Steak House. He began his career literally washing dishes in Palermo, Sicily and then got an opportunity to cook. He traveled and worked throughout Italy, learning new techniques and products and developed his skills. Then, he got an offer he couldn't refuse -- to come to San Diego to develop these restaurants. He's been here ever since.

Panevino has its own bakery and pastry chef. If bread could be an entrée, it would receive that title here. A choice of breads, including a special pita-like, herb-encrusted bread, is brought to the table. Panevino put together a wine list that has been honored by Wine Spectator.

"My customers know what they like, so my menu doesn't change very much during the year," Morealle explained. "But we always offer seasonal items as specials," he added. That allows him to take advantage of the bountiful variety of fruits, vegetables, meats and fish that are available in Southern California, without deviating from the overall Tuscan themes of his dishes. Of course, entrees from many of the regions of Italy can be ordered.

Surprisingly, the lunch menu is extensive. There is a lengthy listing of appetizers (antipasti) and salads (insalate), followed by an amazing array of pasta and main dishes (piatti principali). Time to loosen the belt because the descriptions of the dishes are so tempting and the fragrances of dishes on nearby tables are so tantalizing.

Bufala con Pomodorini, buffalo milk mozzarella topped with oven-dried organic cherry tomatoes on the vine, extra virgin olive oil, basil, over a bed of arugula, can be a great start to a dining adventure.

Bruschetta, with Chino farms diced tomatoes, capers, parmigiano shaves, extra virgin olive oil and basil adds more delicious substance to the great breadbasket.

One of my favorite appetizers is the Calamari Posillipo, sautéed calamari with garlic, white wine and a touch of tomato sauce.

The variety of pasta shapes, fillings and accompaniments on the menu is dazzling -- something for every taste and desire. I always enjoy the subtle yet satisfying flavors of Malfatti al Funghetto, house-made spinach ravioli stuffed with ricotta and spinach in a creamy wild mushroom sauce.

Entrees include tasty preparations of chicken, veal, beef and pork. The Tagliata al Pepe Nero, for example, is excellent. The dish includes medallions of filet mignon sautéed with black peppercorn, caramelized onions and a Brandy cream sauce. On my last visit, the specials of the day featured a small whole seabass, grilled and topped with garlic, on a bed of steamed vegetables, which was thankfully healthful and just delicious.

Chef Morreale blends fresh local produce and products in creative and savory ways. Osteria Panevino really delivers the flavors and ambiance. The restaurant is located at 722 Fifth Avenue in the Gaslamp. Call 619-595-7959 for information or reservations.