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RESTAURANTS | COMMENTARY
Food and fun at Buca di Beppo
By DAVID ROTTENBERG
Thursday, May 21, 2009
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People filled the entryway like patients waiting to see a busy doctor. The lineup edged out of the building and spilled onto the sidewalk. But, there was one big difference. Everyone was smiling, anticipating happily what was coming up.
I was at the Gaslamp location of Buca Di Beppo, a national chain of family Italian restaurants. There are two more locations in San Diego. One is in Mira Mesa (858-536-2822) and the other is in Carlsbad (760-479-2533).
Javier Amaya, the amiable assistant general manager and chef at this location told me that the menus are the same nationwide. "We want our customers to know what to expect and to feel confident that they will enjoy great food in comfortable surroundings." Consistency and reliability is a strong part of the restaurant's marketing program.
To enter the restaurant, one literally walks through the gleaming kitchen. Everything is neat and sparkly. One table, which must be reserved in advance, allows guests who sit there to watch the goings-on and occasionally get visits from the chef. It is, after all, a chef's table.
The interior at this location consists of a number of connected small rooms that create a sense of intimacy and comfort. The walls generally are a light color and the woods are dark. Arches and panels create an ambiance of Italian architecture. Photos in frames of varying shapes and sizes cover the walls. They are photos of old, famous movie stars, entertainers and celebrities. They look like scattered family photos that could litter the home of an Italian grandmother. One room is called the "Frank Sinatra" room with pictures of that famous Italian. Another room, perfect for small parties, is called the "Pope's room" and has a bust of the Pope in it. A poster room has posters covering the walls and ceiling, much like Michealangelo's frescos. A meeting room that can hold as many as 150 diners has long rows of tables to facilitate conversation. Each room is unique, but it is all very cozy and comfy.
For some reason, I thought the "buca" has something to do with "kisses." I should brush up on my Italian. "Baci" (a great restaurant near La Jolla) means "kisses." "Buca" refers to a "basement." The image is to create the feeling of a neat, neighborhood restaurant such as one may find in Rome or Florence, which often is located in a basement. That's why none of the rooms have any windows.
Every few minutes, a server would walk by carrying a candelabra with lit candles to place on a table. Then, along with several other servers and usually with the participation of most of the diners in the room, the refrains of "Happy Birthday" echoed.
"We want to create a fun family place to dine," Amaya continued. "Our price points are inexpensive. Our portions are family style. Our food is wonderful. I love to come out of the kitchen to see smiling faces and happy people."
Amaya lives up to his word. The portion sizes would easily feed a family -- a large one. In fact, we had so much food left over that we departed carrying two large shopping bags filled with containers.
We started with a Bruschetta, toasted thick Italian bread brushed with garlic olive oil and topped with diced fresh tomato and basil. It should come with a warning label. It is addictive.
The Apple Gorgonzola Salad, with tart apple slices, walnuts and cheese, topped with a vinaigrette, led the way to the entrée delights. Fried Calamari (also an appetizer) were breaded with a delightful flavor and came with a spicy marinara sauce that wakes up one's taste buds.
The new dish, Prosciutto Stuffed Chicken, offered breaded breasts stuffed with prosciutto and mozzarella, topped with marinara and a pesto sauce. It was superb. If you haven't tried it yet, you'll love it. Chicken Parmigiana was pounded thin and delightfully topped with cheese. It was a simple dish, but so very tasty.
Leave room for dessert. The homemade cheesecake, topped with a fruit sauce, is rich and totally satisfying.
Buca Di Beppo really delivers -- food, fun, ambiance. FYI -- it also delivers to local homes or offices and does catering. The Gaslamp location is at 705 Sixth Avenue. Call 619-233-7272 for information or reservations.

Rottenberg is editor of Dining San Diego Magazine, a member of the California Restaurant Writers Association and the restaurant critic for sdgodowntown.com. Send comments to the editor@sddt.com. All letters are forwarded to the author and may be used as Letters to the Editor.





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