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By DAVID ROTTENBERG
Thursday, June 25, 2009
Some people like it hot. Some people like it cold. Some people eat it for breakfast. Some people will consider it only for dinner. What is it? - Pizza, of course.
Pizza has become one of America's favorite foods, beloved for its flexibility. One can top off the pizza crust with all sorts of ingredients, limited only by one's taste preferences.
The popularity of pizza has been nurtured by good marketing and the ubiquitous places that sell it, all the way from major chains to small mom-and-pop pizzerias that can be found in almost every neighborhood. The reason? -- profit margins, which are high for the food industry. Where else can a couple of dollars worth of ingredients translate into $15 or more gross revenue? I've seen frozen pizza in supermarkets where the packaging looks like it costs more than the contents.
The history of pizza stretches back to murky times, when memories and records weren't kept efficiently. There is, in fact, great controversy about the origin of the word "pizza." Some scholars insist that the word originates from the German word "bizzo" or "pizzo" meaning "mouthful." Others claim it comes from the Latin word "pinsa," which means to pound the dough. Some Jewish students of the food say it derives from the Aramaic word "pita" in the Babylonian Talmud, referring to bread in general. And these are only a few of the many contenders.
The first flatbread I'm familiar with is "matzo," which goes back over 3,000 years. It is conceivable that diners put all kinds of ingredients on top of matzo over the ages. The first mention of the word "pizza" may have been in Latin as far back as the 10th century. As far back as the third century BC, Cato The Elder describes a dish that sounds a lot like today's pizza.
What distinguishes modern pizza from the rest was the introduction of tomato sauce in the 16th century, when tomatoes were brought to Europe from Peru. It became a popular dish with poorer people, who had often only flour, olive oil, lard, cheese, and herbs with which to feed their families. For some reason, the dish became famous in Naples, Italy. Many visitors went to the city just to experience it. In the late 1700s, the dish migrated to the upper classes when the Queen of Naples had a pizza oven built for her at one of her palaces.
In the early 1800s, Alexander Dumas (Count of Monte Cristo fame) described pizza with diverse toppings. In 1889, Queen Margherita of Italy invited the most famous pizza maker in Italy at the time, Raffaele Esposito, to come to the castle to prepare some of his dishes. One dish, which she most enjoyed, was made with mozzarella, basil and tomato, reflecting the colors of the Italian flag. That pizza is often still called "Pizza Margherita" in recognition of the honor she bestowed.
Pizza came to the United States with the many Italian migrations but it wasn't until the early 1900s that a pizzeria first opened here. After World War II, many soldiers came back from Europe with a taste for the dish. Popular culture began to embrace pizza under the influence of stars like Frank Sinatra, Jimmy Durante and Joe Dimaggio, who all loved it. Dean Martin's song line, "When the moon hits your eye like a big pizza pie, that's amore," did a lot for the food.
Pizzeria owners began to experiment with the crust, making it out of different grains, whole wheat, among others. A deep-dish pizza was developed in Chicago by Pizzeria Uno and spread in popularity. Other owners boasted of "thin" crusts -- the thinner, the better.
Chains of restaurants selling pizza developed, such as Shakey's Pizza and Pizza Hut. Later successful chains were those that featured hot home delivery such as Domino's and Papa John's.
San Diego has many pizza options but there are three standouts that have locations countywide -- Sammy's Woodfired Pizza, California Pizza Kitchen, and Il Fornaio.
Sammy's Woodfired has locations ranging from Oceanside to the border. Its newest is in Point Loma. It offers comfortable restaurants, with good ambiance that makes it a favorite for families. Its menu has expanded to include tapas and assorted entrees as well as pizza. Both regular crust and "artisan" thin crust pizza is available. Its pizzas have been consistent award winners, featuring selections such as the eponymous "Five Cheeses," "Spicy Italian Sausage" with sautéed mushrooms and oregano, a fruity "Hawaiian Pineapple" that is combined with Canadian bacon, and a "Vegetarian" loaded with healthy greens.
California Pizza Kitchen is a national chain that was founded by two Beverly Hills lawyers with too much time on their hands. Like Sammy's Woodfired, CPK has dine-in locations with comfortable seating and a large list of menu selections, including a range of entrees. There are six locations of CPK in San Diego County. Its favorite dishes include "Carne Asada" with grilled steak and mild chilies, "Buffalo Chicken" with a spicy sauce and mozzarella cheese, and "Meat Cravers" with sweet Italian sausage and lots of other spicy meats.
Il Forniao ("the baker") is a step up to "fine dining," with two view locations -- Del Mar and Coronado. The ambiance is beautiful, with ocean and city views. The food is outstanding. Every month, Il Fornaio has a festival of dishes from a different region of Italy, created by one of its chef/partners from that region. The festival often has a "local" pizza dish. Il Fornaio's favorites include "Pizza Fradiavolo" with sausage and mozzarella, "Pizza Cristina" with proscuito and mushrooms, and the famous "Pizza Margherita".
All of the above offer pizza pick-up and take home. Some also feature calzone with varying stuffings, one of my favorite pizza dishes. All locations can be found quickly in a telephone directory or online.
Now, armed with a little bit of history and background, eating pizza may take on a whole new taste sensation.
Rottenberg is editor of Dining San Diego Magazine and a member of the California Restaurant Writers Association. Send comments to the editor@sddt.com. All letters are forwarded to the author and may be used as Letters to the Editor.
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