What's a good name for a restaurant? Some operators would suggest that the address is the best name. That way, to know the name is also to know the location. For example, Terryl Garve named her restaurant in that way. She called it Café 222 for its address, 222 Island, downtown. There are many other examples.

One of the most notable, to me, is Kitchen 1540 at the renovated L'Auberge Del Mar Resort. Destination Hotels manages it along with a large number of independent boutique hotels around the country including two in San Diego, two in Los Angeles and one in Palm Springs. The company spent a small fortune improving and upgrading its rooms, spa, athletic facilities and other amenities. And, it totally changed its restaurant. J. Taylor's disappeared into the dustbin of culinary history last year. Kitchen 1540 emerged like a phoenix, with new interior, exterior patios, several tents and a different concept.

A new, perfectly balanced heavy glass door, leads into an attractive, high-ceilinged area, where a glowing fireplace casts flickering shadows toward the open, display kitchen that houses a team of chefs assembling orders. The ambiance is somewhat casual, yet elegant. Tables are topped with attractive wood rather than white linen. Servers wear red shoes as part of their uniforms. The menu is printed on a single sheet, short but comprehensive, where diners can always find something they'd wish to enjoy. There is even a cheeseburger on it.

But, despite the relaxed ambiance, this is a place where "foodies" can really taste, savor, pick apart, discuss and really enjoy the offerings.

Why? Because in the midst of all the changes that took place, the one constant that remained was the talented chef, Paul McCabe. He has been there for years, through all the transition, continually maintaining his high standards for cuisine.

Chef McCabe worked at the legendary L'Ermitage in Los Angeles. He has cooked for major movie stars and celebrities. Prior to joining L'Auberge, he worked locally at Top O' the Cove and Star of the Sea restaurants. He has received numerous awards for his creations and has cooked several times at the James Beard House in New York. Locally, he has built a loyal fan following for his cuisine.

"I stress the use of fresh, organic and hormone free products. And my fish must come from sustainable species," he said. Produce is grown locally on small farms in Fallbrook and other nearby areas. Poultry and meats must be hormone free.

"I won't serve tuna in my restaurant," McCabe said. "It has almost disappeared, overfished by other countries. Some other species are caught before they can reach sexual maturity. We are cutting off future generations of the species. We owe it to our children to make sure they have fish and that the oceans survive."

Two starters deserve particular mention. Roasted Wild Prawns are easy to extract from their shells. They are sweet and succulent and have a wonderful firm texture. Sweet Corn Agnolotti with lobster and truffle oil delight the senses with sensational texture and fragrance of the sea.

The Organic Green Salad has a magnificent fresh flavor. It comes with a slice of goat cheese, cherries and almonds and a sherry vinaigrette. Chilled Heirloom Tomato Soup was delightfully cooling on a warm evening. It was hearty, full of taste.

Entrees were terrific. The Loch Duart Salmon was perfectly prepared, with lemon spaetzle and sweet and sour plum. The Lamb Loin & Braised Leg was prepared to my exact order, served on farro salad with peas and summer squash, with a spiced pepper jam to give it a kick.

Desserts were just as exciting as the entrees. The Nectarine Tartine included crème fraiche ice cream and candied walnuts for a fruity, nutty, tasty sensation. Flourless Chocolate Cake was topped with organic strawberries.

The award-winning wine list was short but select. There were limited choices of wine by the glass but more selections by the half bottle. "Many of our customers order small plates or a tasting menu and they prefer half bottles. We give our customers what they want," chef McCabe stated.

The chef is talented at getting amazing flavors out of his ingredients, which are healthful as well as tasty. It is clear why, with all the change, chef McCabe was a constant.

Kitchen 1540 is located within the L'Auberge Del Mar Resort. It is located at 1540 (what else?) Camino Del Mar. Call 858-259-1515 for reservations and information.