Most chefs working in hot, steamy kitchens dream of owning their own restaurant one day. They long for a time when they can express their own creativity, develop their own flavors, and bask in the appreciation of their customers. But only special chefs have the personality, drive and business acumen to create a culinary empire. Very few can master the organizational, promotional and marketing skills that are vital to growing ideas into thriving business concepts. Wolfgang Puck has it all. And he's done it all.

His official bio runs to more than four pages of small type that lists only the most prominent of his accomplishments. Wolfgang Puck has been a major influence on contemporary tastes.

He now runs an integrated food services company with a fine dining division of famous restaurants nationwide, a catering company that throws amazing celebrity-studded events, and a marketing company for restaurant franchises and publishing activities.

Like many chefs, his interest in cooking developed at his mother's side in Austria. He began his career at a young age and worked at fine restaurants in France, including a Michelin three-star in Provence. He came to the United States in his mid-20s and soon arrived in Hollywood, where his culinary creativity attracted attention. The legendary Ma Maison and Spago Restaurant won him fame and awards. He is the only chef to have been recognized twice as Outstanding Chef of the Year by the James Beard Foundation.

Puck focused on fusion of Asian flavors when he opened Chinois on Main in Santa Monica, blending a multi-national range of tastes with California and European tastes. Over the coming years, he opened many restaurants, including quick-service concepts. Many Las Vegas hotels are home to a Wolfgang Puck operation, particularly fine dining. CUT, which he opened at Palazzo last year, is his move into steakhouses.

Viewers of the Academy, Grammy or American Music awards know that Wolfgang Puck caters many of the celebratory post-show dinners. Viewers of cooking shows on TV will have seen Puck demonstrate many of his techniques and recipes. He has also written numerous cookbooks. Puck's motto is "WELL", an acronym of "Wolfgang's Eat, Love, Live" -- good food as central to a good life.

He was invited to open a restaurant on the La Jolla Playhouse grounds, which is located on the UCSD campus. Playgoers have become familiar with the restaurant's location but many local residents, even "foodies," have not yet discovered the delightful dining experiences available there.

The restaurant was designed by noted architect Martin Vahtra and is full of natural light and air during the day. Huge glass walls look out to the university campus, with its soaring trees, lawns and nearby sculpture garden. It is also fun to watch playgoers stream by.

A casual bar fills the center space. Woods and colors are in light, pleasing tones. The ambiance is one of comfort, ease, lightness of being. It is elegant without being stiff or formal.

The cuisine is contemporary Asian inspired. The chef worked with Puck personally before coming to San Diego to create special dishes for this location.

Produce is at the peak of freshness, coming from the local Chino Farms. The Heirloom Tomato Salad, with avocado, was brimming with the taste of having been picked at the perfect point of ripeness. Crispy Shrimp and Scallop Spring Rolls and Spicy Tuna Tartar in a Sesame Miso Cone are also excellent ways to begin.

Grilled Mongolian Lamb Chops, on the list of entrees, were juicy in the center yet crispy on the edges and wonderfully meaty in taste. The accompanying outstanding Hunan Eggplant restored my love of what can be a bitter vegetable. London Broil Flank Steak with stir-fried vegetables was paired with a soy glaze that greatly enhanced the flavor. Cantonese Duck with stir fried noodles and shitake in a bing cherry sauce melted in my mouth. Miso Sake Broiled Butterfish with chilled noodles and pickled vegetables in a sesame miso dressing is one of the more popular dishes on the menu. It took only a taste for me to understand why that is so.

Sorbet with fresh seasonal berries is a delightful way to close the meal. The Mixed Berry Almond Crumble with fresh berries and raspberry sorbet adds sweetness and crunch to the package.

Jai by Wolfgang Puck, under the skilled management of Shannon Buckley, is a diners' delight that is waiting for discovery. Prices are surprisingly moderate. There is even a midweek happy hour with discounted drink and food prices. An excellent prix fixe menu offers 3 courses for $30, a great value.

Jai by Wolfgang Puck is located at 2910 La Jolla Village Drive on the UCSD campus. Valet parking is available during the week. It is open daily for dinner, except Mondays. Call 858-638-7778 for reservations and information.