San Diego Dining

Two of the greatest magnets that draw visitors to San Diego are its casual beach lifestyle and its sunsets. There are few places in the world where it is so consistently enjoyable to relax over a drink or meal as the sun sinks into the sea. Georges at the Cove in La Jolla has achieved a tremendous following because it offers a magnificent venue in which to do so.

Georges at the Cove is eponymous with its founding partner, George Hauer, who has won numerous awards as a restaurateur and industry leader. He began his career as a waiter, then went into management. The location he chose for his own restaurant could not have been better, a multi-tiered operation in a picturesque La Jolla business center with stunning views of the famous cove and the curving sweep of the coastline.

The restaurant is about to celebrate its 25th anniversary of ongoing delicious service to its customers.

There are actually three different types of dining at the restaurant. The top level, "Ocean Terrace," is open to the sky but shielded from sun and rain by a series of large, interlaced protective umbrellas. This level is for casual dining -- with blue sky, salty sea air and views, views, views. The bar along one side is a popular hangout to wait for a table or just enjoy a drink with conversation.

Below, "California Modern" is the level for fine dining and corporate events. The restaurant is popular for small group meetings and presentations. La Jollans are sometimes lured to presentations there by the promise of an excellent meal.

Chef-partner Trey Foshee delivers on the promise. He trained at the Culinary Institute of America and has worked at some of the country's best restaurants, including L'Orangerie and Rockenwagner. He has been honored many times, including by the James Beard Foundation. He is a true "foodie" chef.

On a beautiful evening -- typical for La Jolla -- we elected to dine on the Terrace. As dusk fell, we could still see swimmers below us in the ocean. Lights in the distance started to twinkle. Settling in over a glass of red wine, the mood was magical.

Tables are clustered close together, to maximize seating capacity, but it did not seem obtrusive. The crowd was mixed, young and old, but all upscale. Despite its casual setting, the place has class.

The dinner menu is eclectic. The Terrace is not a seafood restaurant or a steak restaurant. It is a "something for everyone" type of place. One could order a "crispy calamari" starter or a "Niman Ranch pork chop" or both. The list of items was small but manageable, with enough choices for a great time. Whatever is selected, one may be assured of freshness and flavor. All veggies come from the local Chino Farms.

Similarly, the wine list is limited but select. There are not many choices but each is sure to please.

Menu items change often, depending on the season and availability. But one item is always listed -- George's Famous Signature Soup with smoked chicken, broccoli and black beans. The special on our evening was the Watermelon Salad, with tasty chunks of heirloom tomato. The Medjool Date salad was another favorite, with arugula, walnuts and creamy goat cheese.

Chef's special entrée that evening was Alaskan Halibut, with corn and tomato. But the dish that stole the show was the Niman Ranch pork chop, perfectly grilled and served on a smooth corn polenta topped with blackberries and arugula in a blackberry glaze. The chop was tender and meaty, just right.

Portions are well sized. One doesn't leave stuffed or hungry, but just right. Prices are moderate -- surprising considering the setting, service and quality of cuisine.

Georges at the Cove is a wonderful place to enjoy the best of La Jolla -- weather and views -- while dining on excellently prepared dishes. The restaurant is located at 1250 Prospect St. in La Jolla. Valet parking is available. For reservations and more information, call 858-454-4244.